Last Updated on October 24, 2024 by Erin Donahue
If you’re planning a trip to Rovaniemi, Finland, and have seven days to explore, you’re in for a treat! The official hometown of Santa Claus is not just for visiting in the winter, the season of autumn is great because it’s not too cold yet and the Northern Lights are active. That’s when I went.
Going to Finland in September 2024 to see the Northern Lights was on my vision board. Originally, I was planning a solo trip elsewhere but then an Instagram friend made a post asking if anyone was interested in joining her. Feeling a call from the universe, I met this German stranger from Switzerland and we traveled around Rovaniemi for a week together.
After a layover in Helsinki, one of Europe’s best airports, my small ATR 72 aircraft descended into Rovaniemi. The view from above was nothing short of breathtaking – the entire landscape was blanketed in fall colors. The Finns have a beautiful word for this autumn phenomenon: “Ruska.” It’s not just about the trees changing colors; even the ground undergoes what they call “Maaruska,” creating a vibrant carpet of reds and yellows.
I quickly learned about a beloved Finnish tradition called “Ruskaretki” – essentially a hike to admire the fall foliage. While participating in this cultural ritual, I discovered that autumn in Rovaniemi isn’t just about admiring colors. Foraging is a huge part of local life, and though I didn’t get to participate directly, I made up for it by consuming my body weight in lingonberry jam. I even tried Cloudberry for the first time, and don’t get me started on their amazing blueberry juice!
Did you know Rovaniemi is the official hometown of Santa Claus? Yes, you read that right. During my visit in autumn, the Santa Claus Village was eerily quiet, with rows of empty souvenir shops and a distinct lack of jingle bells in the air. But don’t let that fool you. Come December, this place transforms into something akin to Copenhagen’s Tivoli Gardens, buzzing with excited visitors from around the world.
Despite the off-season emptiness, there was something magical about standing on the Arctic Circle line – that invisible boundary where the midnight sun rules in summer and polar nights descend in winter. I couldn’t resist sending postcards to friends and family from Santa’s official post office. I mean, who wouldn’t want to receive mail from Santa’s Village?
While Santa might be the star attraction for most visitors, I came to Rovaniemi with a different mission: photographing the Northern Lights in autumn. Here’s a little-known secret: autumn is actually the best time to see the Aurora Borealis. This is due to the earth’s orientation towards the sun during this season maximizes the chance of those mesmerizing lights dancing across the sky.
No chase is ever without challenges. For most of the week, I was in Rovaniemi, rain clouds obscured the sky, testing my patience. While my lazy ass was hoping the lights would come to me since the weather wasn’t cooperating, I made the decision to go after them, and a real Northern Lights hunt ensued! Based on a spontaneous decision, I joined a local aurora hunter in his rugged Defender and headed west toward the Swedish border. The drive itself was an adventure, and after two hours driving west, the sky cleared! There, right before my eyes, ethereal green ribbons swayed and shimmered, reflecting off nearby lakes and creating an otherworldly scene. Statistically, being in the Arctic Circle, you’re guaranteed to see the Northern Lights at least once if you’re there longer than 3 days. In one magical moment, I captured a shot with the crescent moon, Milky Way, and Aurora all dancing together overhead.
After a seven-hour chase that literally ended with me standing on the Finland-Sweden border, I was hooked. Though it rained for the next couple of days, my last night in Rovaniemi brought clear skies and an encore performance. Within 12 hours, I managed to capture everything I’d hoped for throughout the week – fall foliage, golden hour, and the most breathtaking Northern Lights display yet, with vibrant curtains of green and purple moving in a hypnotic rhythm.
During my week in Rovaniemi, I had the pleasure of experiencing three distinct accommodations:
No visit to Finland would be complete without experiencing a traditional sauna. With 2 million saunas for 5 million citizens, it’s clearly a cornerstone of Finnish culture. While most locals visit public saunas, I was fortunate to enjoy private sessions at two of my accommodations. This is because I partnered with each of them while I was there, and they wanted me to experience was this cultural tradition. Picture this: the intense heat of a wood-fired sauna followed by an exhilarating plunge into a crisp, cool lake. It’s an invigorating ritual that epitomizes Finnish wellness culture.
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